If you’re visiting La Fortuna and looking for something a little different — something most tourists don’t even know about — let me introduce you to Ciudad Esmeralda. It’s not super well-known, but it should be. Think cold river water, climbing ladders through the jungle, and ending at a stunning hidden waterfall. It’s tough, messy, and seriously worth it.
What is Ciudad Esmeralda?
Ciudad Esmeralda is a guided river hike through the jungle just outside of La Fortuna. You’ll wade through water, climb ladders, scramble over rocks, and finally reach a beautiful waterfall tucked deep in the forest. It’s not easy, but it’s one of the coolest things I’ve done in Costa Rica.
Where is Waterfall Esmeralda Located
It’s just a short drive outside of La Fortuna, but you can’t just show up — you have to book through a local company called La Vieja Adventures.
Tour Options
There are a few different ways to do the tour depending on your schedule and budget:
- Basic Tour – ₡14,990 / $29
Only on weekends - Day Pass (includes lunch) – ₡19,990 / $39
Also only on weekends - Private Tour – ₡29,990 / $59
Only on weekdays - Rappelling Option – You can actually rappel down the waterfall!
You’ll need to message La Vieja Adventures directly to get info on this one.
Tour Times: 8am, 9am, or 10am
Length: About 3 to 4 hours
Who Should (and Shouldn’t) Do It?
This isn’t a casual stroll — it’s a physical hike, and you’ll be in cold water for most of it. You should be:
- Between 18–65 years old
- In decent physical shape
- Comfortable hiking over slippery rocks, climbing ladders, and crossing rivers without much help
The guide is there, but with big groups, you’ll be doing a lot on your own. It’s important to feel confident on your feet and okay with getting totally soaked.
Parking and Facilities
Free parking is available on site for all visitors.
There are bathrooms, showers, and changing rooms at the end — but be prepared to wait. A lot of people try to use them at the same time, and we ended up just changing at the car.
What to Bring
Pack smart — you’ll be soaked head to toe, and the water’s cold. Here’s what you’ll want:
- Clothes/shoes that can get wet
- Quick-dry hiking clothes (shorts or pants + long sleeve shirt)
- Rain jacket
- Waterproof gloves (nice to have, but not a must)
- Dry clothes and shoes for after
- Towel
- Water bottle + snacks
- Phone or small camera
- Waterproof bag (a must if you bring electronics)
- ID (you need it to check in)
- Cash to pay (or SINPE if you’re a local)
Heads up: you’ll literally be in the river for most of the hike. Don’t bring anything that can’t get wet unless it’s fully protected.
How to Book
You’ll need to book through La Vieja Adventures — either on their website or via WhatsApp. Everything (check-in, instructions, tour) is in Spanish, so just be ready for that. Tourists are 100% welcome, but this is a very local experience.
Tour Overview
Check In
When you arrive, you’ll show your ID, pay, and get a quick intro. It’s all in Spanish but pretty easy to follow.
Walk to the Trail
You’ll walk about 5–10 minutes downhill to where the adventure begins.
The Ladders
You’ll go down a bunch of ladders into the canyon. Since groups can be big (20–30 people), this part moves slowly — just go with it.
River Crossings
You start crossing the river — back and forth between land and water, climbing over rocks, under trees. It’s slippery and cold but so fun.
More Ladders
At one point, you’ll use a rope to pull yourself across a deep section (chest-high water), then climb two more ladders to get out.
Back to River Crossings
You’ll keep making your way upstream, climbing and crawling until you finally get to the waterfall.
Waterfall Esmerelda
This is the big payoff — a gorgeous hidden waterfall where you can hang out for a bit, take photos, and watch people rappel down it if they’re doing that tour.
The Walk Back
You hike back the same way. Still cold, still wet — still awesome.
Changing after the Tour
Like I mentioned, the changing rooms can get crowded. If you don’t want to wait, bring a towel and change at your car.
Tip your Guide
They work hard! You can give your tip directly to the guide or leave it at the front desk.
After the Tour
If you’re still up for exploring, there are a bunch of great spots nearby:
- El Salto (a local swimming hole)
- La Fortuna Waterfall
- Lake Arenal viewpoints
- Free hot springs along the river
- Arenal Volcano National Park
Final Thoughts
Ciudad Esmeralda is one of those hidden gems that make you feel like you’ve discovered something real. It’s not touristy, it’s not easy — but it’s one of the most memorable things I did in La Fortuna. If you love nature, adventure, and don’t mind getting cold and wet, go do this. You won’t regret it.
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